What is an Original Hem alteration?

An original hem, also known as a European or euro hem, is a technique for shortening jeans and pants without losing the original hem the company manufactured. This alteration method is particularly valuable for pre-washed or aged hem edges, as it allows the wearer to maintain the garment's original look.

Many experienced sewers prefer using the hemming method that can only be achieved on industrial machines. This technique not only preserves the frayed hem edges but also maintains the manufacturer's stitching above the hem, which is usually too thick for home machines. Dressmakers and tailoring shops often face difficulties in implementing this technique. However, at Better Clothing, we have mastered this method to a fine art, making sure that our customers receive the best quality hemming services.

What NOT to ask for and why…

Clean Cut Orginal Hems

The method of alteration demonstrated here results in a clean interior construction, but the style of construction causes the hem to be stiff and take on a ring-like shape. Customers who requested removal and re-hemming have reported that it was uncomfortable to wear.

Individuals who are knowledgeable about denim and jeans tend to avoid original hem alterations. This alteration procedure is generally advocated by DIY enthusiasts and non-experts because it is easier for their equipment to handle.

The selling point of the process for tailors is the preservation of the store-bought hem. However, the downside is the bulky inside construction around the ankles, the awkward seamline, or the stiff ring-like shape of the cleaner sewn version of the alteration. Additionally, the aged appearance of the hem will naturally return through frequent washing or wear.

Denim jeans and similarly constructed pants are typically sewn with chain stitching at the hem and heavy threads that can withstand harsh washing, which is not typical in other types of clothing.

Nonetheless, even denim enthusiasts who are more knowledgeable than the average person about jeans and workwear can be convinced to opt for an original hem alteration. This may be due to a lack of adequate questioning when choosing a hemming service.

Below is an example of jeans and pants that have been sent in for rescuing.

Iron Heart lovers should be warned that the photo below could be highly upsetting. Proceed reading at your own risk.

The Iron Heart jeans were poorly tailored, with a tapered outseam that destroyed the selvedge and an original hem alteration.

This is a clear example of poor tailoring. These jeans, which were quite expensive and of high quality, were tapered from the outseams, destroying the selvedge. To make matters worse, the tailor then added an original hem alteration. However, in this case, there was no reason to preserve the worn-looking hem edge. The likely reason for using this hemming technique is the lack of equipment capable of sewing through the heavy denim that is typically found in Iron Heart jeans.